Sumatran coffees are sometimes naturally processed, sometimes aged, but are most often encounted in semi-washed form. The paper surrounding the seed is left on, and both are allowed to dry somewhat. Once done, the seed turns a unique shade of green. The process is rather quick, allowing farmers to finish their crop before the rains intervene. Process is inextricably linked to terroir.
This past week I have been tasting Kuma's Sumatra Tano Batak ($15/12 oz. + $5 USPS shipping). http://www.kumacoffee.com/collections/frontpage/products/sumatra-tano-batak
Kuma notes pine needles, autumn leaves, juniper berry, winter melon, and grapefruit. Coffee Review scored it 93, noting grapefruit, spice, leaves, vanilla, peach. http://www.coffeereview.com/review.cfm?ID=2776
I noted different things depending on my brew method. I like it best out of my vacuum pot. It was a thirst-quenching citrus juice, with fresh alpine notes. Juniper berry, essentially: bright and foresty. The vacuum pot domesticated it, not that this is an especially wild Sumatra. But for someone who usually goes for washed coffees, domestication was in order. The vacuum pot, that genteel apparatus, was kind enough to oblige.
Paper-filtered methods emphasized the foresty quality, bringing out more wood and leaf. Overwhelmingly foresty when hot, more palatable when cool.
It's very clean, putting me in mind of the Sumatras that Johnson Brothers usually offer.
As it gets cooler, there's a gentle sweetness reminiscent of melon or stone fruit.
This is not an origin that I typically drink, and I will blackly continue to not drink it much, but I am glad that I tried this one.